Centuries of settlers have left their stamp on Gard, making it a diverse and delightful place to visit, as Eleanor O’Kane discovers during an autumn visit she describes in Living France.
It’s not surprising the stone slabs of the Pont du Gard are the golden colour of just-baked bread; they’ve been toasting in the heat of the Mediterranean sun for a staggering 1,000 years. Rising to a height of 48 metres above the River Gardon, whose inky blue waters flow between the six arches of its first tier, this majestic bridge is one of those monuments, like the pyramids of Egypt, that become more impressive the more you learn about its construction. A UNESCO World Heritage monument, the stones that form this mortar-free bridge have been standing firm for centuries with nothing other than the ingenuity of Roman engineering holding them tight.
The Romans first passed through Gard in 118 BC during the construction of the first Roman road built in Gaul, the Via Domitia, which linked Italy to Spain. It was built over an existing road that, legend has it, was used by Hercules and Hannibal. Stretching from Italy, across the Alps and into modern-day Briançon in Haute-Alpes, across southern France to Perpignan then over the border into Spain, it facilitated the movement of the Emperor’s army and helped general communication across the Roman Empire. Less than 100 years later, a settlement was established in what is now Nîmes, capital of Gard, which became a thriving Roman town called Nemausus.
Civilised Roman towns required a great deal of water to feed their mansions, bath houses and public fountains and around their empire, the Romans constructed around 50 aqueducts to transport the water that was so key to their daily needs, including the aqueduct of Nîmes, which was built during 40-60 AD. The Pont du Gard is the most visible and impressive section of the 50-km-long aqueduct, a system of bridges, tunnels and pipes that carried 20 million gallons of clean water to Nemausus daily.